Aluminum Wiring in 1965-1972 PNW Homes.

TL;DR. If your home was built 1965 to 1972, there’s a real chance the branch wiring is aluminum. The wire itself is safe, but connection points to outlets and switches fail. Cheapest fix: CO/ALR remediation ($1,800-$4,200) replaces every outlet and switch with aluminum-rated devices, accepted by most insurers. Full re-pull to copper ($8,000-$18,000) is required by a few carriers.

Direct answer, what’s wrong and what to do

Aluminum branch wiring (single-strand aluminum used for the 15A and 20A circuits to outlets and switches) was installed in roughly 30% of new homes in the late 1960s and early 1970s, including a fair share of Seattle homes. The wire itself doesn’t fail. The connection points to outlets, switches, and junction boxes fail because:

1. Aluminum and brass (the standard outlet terminal metal) expand at different rates
2. Aluminum oxidizes faster than copper, increasing resistance at connection points
3. Loose connections heat up and can ignite surrounding insulation or wood

Two remediation paths:

For most homeowners and most insurance carriers, CO/ALR remediation is the right answer. It addresses the actual failure mechanism (the connection points) at a fraction of the cost of full re-pull.

How to identify aluminum wiring

Three checks:

Look at the wire jacket markings. Open an outlet or switch box. Look for “AL” or “ALUMINUM” stamped on the wire jacket near where it enters the box. If you see “CU” or “COPPER” you have copper. If you see “AL” you have aluminum.

Check the home’s build year. Most aluminum branch wiring was installed in homes built 1965 to 1972. After 1972, building codes changed and copper became standard again.

Check outlets and switches. Aluminum-rated devices are stamped “CO/ALR” on the front or back. If your outlets and switches don’t have CO/ALR markings AND your home is 1965-1972, you likely have aluminum on standard brass-terminal devices, which is the failure mode.

The real safety risk

Aluminum branch wiring isn’t a guaranteed fire hazard, but the failure rate is meaningfully higher than copper:

• Estimates: 55x higher rate of reaching “fire hazard conditions” at outlets and switches vs copper wiring
• Most failures show as: warm or hot outlets, intermittent power, melted plastic on outlet faces, flickering lights
• Some failures progress to: junction box arcing, smoke, fire

The risk is highest at high-load circuits (kitchen, laundry, bathroom, HVAC) and lowest at low-load circuits (bedrooms with just lights and a few small electronics).

The two remediation paths in detail

Path 1: CO/ALR remediation (recommended for most)

What we do:

• Replace every outlet and switch with CO/ALR-rated equivalents (aluminum-rated brass terminal devices)
• Apply antioxidant compound (Noalox or similar) to every aluminum-to-brass connection
• Properly torque every termination to manufacturer spec
• Document with photos and torque specs for insurance

Time: 2 to 4 days for typical 1,800 sq ft home.

Cost: $1,800 to $4,200 depending on outlet count.

Insurance acceptance: Accepted by USAA, Pemco, Liberty Mutual, Travelers, State Farm, Allstate, Farmers, most regional carriers. Always confirm with your specific carrier before starting.

Path 2: Full re-pull (sometimes required)

What we do:

• Pull all aluminum branch wiring out of the home
• Replace with modern copper Romex (12-2 or 14-2 depending on circuit)
• Update all outlets and switches to modern code (GFCI in wet locations, AFCI in bedrooms per Washington state code)
• Patch drywall and texture where access cuts were needed

Time: 7 to 14 working days, plus 5 to 10 days for drywall repair.

Cost: $8,000 to $18,000 for typical Seattle home.

Insurance acceptance: Required by some carriers (specific underwriting decisions). USAA and Pemco sometimes require full re-pull rather than accept CO/ALR remediation; State Farm and Allstate sometimes require it.

Insurance reality

Three patterns we see in 2026:

Most carriers accept CO/ALR remediation. With proper documentation (photos, torque specs, master electrician sign-off), CO/ALR remediation is acceptable to keep coverage in force.

Some new policy quotes require full re-pull. When shopping for new insurance on a home with aluminum wiring, some carriers won’t quote even with CO/ALR completed. Re-pull may be necessary to get a new policy.

Surcharges are common. Even with CO/ALR remediation, some carriers add 5 to 15% premium surcharges for aluminum-wired homes vs copper-wired equivalents. Annual cost: $200 to $700 typically.

Cost scenarios by scope

Late-1960s rambler, CO/ALR remediation

• 1,500 to 1,800 sq ft, ~25 to 30 outlets, ~20 to 25 switches
• CO/ALR device replacement throughout
• Torqued connections, antioxidant compound, documentation
• Typical range: $2,800 to $3,800 over 2 to 4 days
• Most carriers accept this scope with documentation

Early-1970s split-level, partial re-pull

• 2,000 to 2,400 sq ft, mix of aluminum and copper (often from prior remodel)
• CO/ALR remediation for remaining aluminum circuits only
• Typical range: $2,200 to $3,400 over 2 to 3 days

Pre-1970 craftsman, full re-pull

• 1,800 to 2,200 sq ft
• When carrier requires full re-pull rather than CO/ALR
• Aluminum throughout, no prior remediation
• Full re-pull with modern copper Romex + code-compliant devices
• Typical range: $13,000 to $18,000 over 2 to 3 weeks

What we always do

Master electrician on site. Aluminum remediation is detail work where torque, antioxidant application, and connection technique matter. Master electrician supervises and signs off.

Antioxidant compound on every connection. Noalox or equivalent prevents oxidation buildup at the aluminum-brass interface.

Proper torquing. Every connection torqued to spec. We use calibrated torque drivers, not “tight enough.”

Documentation packet. Photos before and after, torque specs, master license number, permit number, inspection date. Insurance-ready.